The Saaris’ (Sorta) Safe Sojourn – PART 1

OK, you can stop holding your collective breath now. On October 11, 2020, nearly two years after we departed on our first extended camping journey (Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure), I drove the RV away from its parking spot alongside the cabin in Grand Marais, MN, for another 6-month tour. Pat had left a few days earlier with the car, to collect trip stuff from the condo and get it ready for winter. Brian is once again staying at the cabin all winter, this time with his new dog, Pippin.

As some may remember, I documented the last winter trip in some detail through a series of twelve blog posts, each covering roughly a two-week period. That was great fun for me and even served a useful purpose by providing a record of the trip for posterity. Surprisingly, several readers told me they actually enjoyed the blog posts. Therefore, I’ll be doing the same thing again this time around: posting a series of articles with brief thumbnail sketches of where we’ve been and perhaps a few pithy observations about the joys and pitfalls of this nomadic existence, including the challenges presented by Covid-19. Here goes my first effort for 2020-21.

Oct 11-12 (Sunday, Monday): I took off at about 8:30 AM and drove to the Baker Park Reserve in Maple Plain, a suburb west of Minneapolis. After fighting the wind all the way, I settled into a nice campsite beneath a colorful maple tree for a two-night stay. I was gratified to find the campground only about 25% occupied, making it very easy to socially distance when not holed up in the RV. On Monday, I took the RV to the local Mercedes Sprinter dealer for 20,000-mile maintenance service ahead of the trip, to make sure the van was shipshape and ready to go. That evening, I decided for some reason to visit the web site of the Pine Lake State Park in Eldora, IA, where we had stayed both on the way south and when returning north during our Excellent Adventure. We had planned to go there again, in no small part due to the nice golf course next to the park. We hadn’t made a reservation and didn’t expect it to be busy, but I just thought I should check the status. Good thing I did, because the park is CLOSED for maintenance, so our trip almost got off to a not-so-great start. After a consultation by phone with Pat at the condo, I reserved a site at the Blue Mounds State Park in Luverne, MN, instead. We didn’t really want to go to Covid-challenged Iowa, anyway, nice golf course or not.

Baker Park Campsite

Oct 13-14 (Tuesday, Wednesday): I met Pat at her brother’s house in Minnetonka, MN at 10 AM, where we left the car in care of the in-laws for the duration of the trip. By the time we had loaded up all the stuff Pat brought along, I though the RV might burst at the seams. Somehow, we seem to have about twice as much as we did the last time, but we just piled all the excess on the bed and took off, vowing to reorganize once we got to the first campground. Again, I felt as though I was battling a ferocious wind all the way and felt exhausted when we arrived. Our campsite was very nice, located only a short walk from the very clean restroom and shower facilities. There were very few other campers at the park, bolstering our feeling of safety from the virus. On Wednesday, we took a hike to go visit the resident bison herd. Since they were hunkered down at the most remote spot possible, it ended up being a seven-mile trek (3.5 miles each way). Pat ended up with a blister from her new hiking boots, and my feet felt absolutely awful, but it was well worth it.

Our site
“North Mound Springs”
Bison Grazing (I counted more than fifty total in the herd)

Oct 15-16 (Thursday, Friday): We motored off at about 10 AM and drove to the Platte River State Park near Louisville, NE. The drive was taxing, as the wind was again quite robust. We had tried to reserve a site on Wednesday, but were unable to do so because online reservations can only be made two or more days in advance. The Nebraska parks website indicated that walk-up sites might be available, so, feeling adventurous, we decided to give it a shot anyway. Along the way, we stopped at a HyVee near Omaha for groceries and were very pleased to find all of the patrons wearing masks and making an effort to distance in the store. But when we got to the Park, there were no sites available. Luckily, we did find a spot at the nearby Louisville State Recreation Area (one of only two sites available). Happy to have found a spot, we settled in to the better of the sites, though I was a bit disconcerted by the large number of campers in residence. However, we were able to avoid close contact with anyone else and enjoyed a pleasant walk along the nearby Platte River on Friday afternoon. I even met a friend in the woods along the way.

Platte River at Louisville State Recreation Area
Trees are our friends!!!

Oct 17-18 (Saturday, Sunday): We hit the road around 10 AM Saturday, this time having an easier drive without much wind as we made our way to the Webster State Park near Stockton, KS. Shortly before arrival at the Park, we stopped for fuel at Mac’s Kwik Stop in Phillipsburg, KS. After filling the RV, I went into the store to pay, wearing my mask, and had to wait while a maskless customer chatted with the masked cashier. The customer felt a need to ask why the cashier was wearing a mask, and my Spidey sense told me to stay far, far away until he left the store, already feeling a bit jittery about traveling through Trump territory. But, when we got to the Park, I was quite relieved to find that the site we had reserved was totally isolated from other human beings. Anxieties thus suitably calmed, this Finnish introvert was able to relax before our next foray onto the highways. On Sunday, we took a nice, 4-mile hike on a trail that wound along the reservoir adjacent to the Park and through the undulating terrain, featuring prairie grasses, small shrubs and trees, and multiple limestone (I think) bluffs and outcroppings.

Social distancing at Webster State Park
View from hiking trail at Webster State Park

Oct 19-21 (Monday-Wednesday): As we were leaving Wednesday morning, I decided to stop at a bait and tackle store within the park to ask if they could fill the RV propane tank. I went inside (wearing my mask, of course) where the maskless proprietress told me they only carried small propane tanks. I hightailed it back to the camper. As we drove along a series of generally straight and narrow roads through the flat prairie lands toward Colorado, I couldn’t help but reflect on the fact that 67% of the people I had close encounters with in Kansas weren’t wearing masks, seemingly validating the stereotype about red state residents. When we eventually crossed the state line, we were greeted by a large sign stating that masks are required in all public places in Colorado, which again bolstered my confidence in the safety of our sojourn. We stopped in the town of Lamar, CO, for the propane fill we couldn’t get earlier, plus diesel fuel, groceries, and some comfort beverages made from grapes and barley. Of the roughly one hundred people we encountered there, 98% were wearing masks, significantly better than in Kansas. But I also realized that we had travelled through the entire state of Kansas, including two nights’ lodging, and only had close encounters with three people! Once again in a good state of mind about what we are doing, we motored off to the John Martin Reservoir State Park.

The John Martin Reservoir was created by damming up the Arkansas River back in the late 1930s and early 1940s. The park was very nice, and our site was at least a sand wedge shot away from any other campers. We spent three relaxing days there, walking along a trail around the small lake (Lake Hasty) downstream of the huge dam, observing wildlife (a flock of turkeys roaming the park, some killdeer along the shore, a host of ducklike birds swimming in the lake, and several flocks of sandhill cranes flying south), listening to the sweet serenade of coyotes or wolves at night, and even doing laundry in the nice park facilities. And we did all of this without coming within 50 yards of another human being, except for the masked park ranger when we checked in on Wednesday.

Our well-isolated campsite at John Martin Reservoir State Park
Lake Hasty in the afternoon

Oct 22-25 (Thursday-Saturday): At 10 AM Thursday, we headed off toward New Mexico. For the first part of the trip, the drive was easy and wind-free as we drove through the high plains along very straight roads. We did encounter some wind as our route wound along a pass through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, reaching an elevation close to 9,000 ft, but the scenery was beautiful and there were very few white-knuckle moments. Our destination, the Questa Lodge and RV Park, proved to be a very pleasant, six-acre property with 40 RV sites (as well as several cabins), nestled at 7461 ft. elevation among the surrounding hills and mountains. The campground was only about half full, so we again had plenty of separation from the other campers, virtually all of whom kept to themselves at their own sites. We spent some time walking around, enjoying the small river and duck pond, and even broke out our bikes for the first time to ride to a nearby convenience store for supplies. The campground also had very good Wi-Fi service, affording an opportunity to make this inaugural post as well as to watch some TV with our streaming service.

Our lovely site at the Questa Lodge and RV Campsite
The duck pond
The river

All in all, we’re off to a good start, my only regret being no opportunity for golf so far (but I’m sure I’ll remedy that before too long). Stay tuned as the adventure continues …

Here’s a map of our progress so far:

Coming Soon to a Blog near You – Another Winter RV Trip

On October 22, 2018, Pat and I departed from our cozy cabin home in Grand Marais, MN, for a 6-month tour in our RV (a 24-Foot Unity model by Leisure Travel Vans of Winkler, Manitoba, Canada). That trip was a bucket list item for us, and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it, as documented in a 12-part series of posts on this intrepid blog entitled, with minimal hyperbole, “Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure.” My final summary in Part 12 of that series was as follows:

  • From October 22, 2018 through April 22, 2019, we travelled 10,200 miles in the RV, plus several hundred more (not tracked) in three rental cars and our own car.
  • We visited 11 states, 9 National Parks, 2 National Monuments, 1 National Recreation Area, and 12 or more State Parks in Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California.

After this truly Excellent Adventure, we were ready for a repeat performance during the winter of 2019-2020, tentatively dubbed “Pat and Dave’s Eastern Extravaganza,” intended to focus on the eastern US in much the same way that we’d covered the western states the first time. Unfortunately, I had some annoying but not serious health issues involving multiple doctor visits, leading us to abandon the plan.

To make up for missing out on the Eastern Extravaganza, we decided to take several non-RV trips during the winter and spring of 2020. In January, we flew to Miami, rented a car, and drove to Key West for a program sponsored by the Road Scholars group. In March, Pat booked a second Road Scholars trip, this time to Hilton Head, SC, for a pickleball clinic. I passed on pickleball but went along anyway to play golf. We enjoyed both trips immensely – here are a few photos:

Key West 3 Key West 4

Key West 2

Hilton Head 2

Hilton Head 1

Before returning from Hilton Head, we were supposed to spend three days in Savannah, GA, celebrating our 41st wedding anniversary. However, as everyone is well aware, Covid-19 reared its ugly head at that time, so we hightailed it back to our condo in Minneapolis to hunker down.

The third planned RV substitute was a Viking River Cruise starting on the Rhine and ending in Paris, planned for late April and early May. Alas, that dream was also shattered by Covid-19 as Viking cancelled all of their excursions. (We did receive a full refund and have rebooked the trip for May of 2021. Perhaps it will actually happen.)

We eventually returned to Grand Marais and spent what turned out to be a very nice summer at the cabin, properly social distancing and happily wearing our masks as required (initially by the town’s merchants and eventually by the Governor). Luckily for us, our favorite recreations are outdoor activities that can still be done safely during the pandemic – golf for me and pickleball and pop tennis for Pat.

But we still had the itch to get out in the RV, so we took it for a couple of trips – to test RV safety in the Covid-infected waters, so to speak. In July, we ventured down the Lake Superior shore to Gooseberry State Park, and in September we went a bit farther, to Lake Itasca State Park.

Gooseberry 1

Gooseberry 2

Itasca 1Itasca 3

Itasca 2

It felt good to be travelling again, and we were pleased to find that our fellow travelers were taking the pandemic seriously – maintaining distance and wearing masks in the limited number of open buildings and everywhere that people congregated, whether indoor or out. At night, as we sat together inside the RV, we asked ourselves the all-important question: Does this feel safe enough to try another big RV excursion?

The answer was yes, though we won’t do it quite the same way this time. We expect to stay at fewer places for longer durations, and if we feel uncomfortable anywhere, we’ll pull up stakes and find someplace more to our liking. But yes, yes, yes – we’re going to do it.

Stay tuned for more blog posts about our coming winter travels. Beginning in early October and lasting (we hope) until April 2021, you can follow us again as we embark on …

The Saaris’ (Sorta) Safe Sojourn!!!

More Author News

Here’s a quick note regarding some recent activity related to my golf-themed mystery books:

  1. My fourth book, Dog Leg Left, has recently been added to the collection at the Grand Marais Public Library, joining Snowman, Slice, and Lateral Hazard on the shelves.
  2. Dog Leg Left is also now on sale at three book stores in Grand Marais, MN — Birchbark Books and Gifts, The Trading Post, and Drury Lane Books. (Birchbark and Trading Post also carry the other three books, but Drury Lane hasn’t taken the full plunge yet.)
  3. Dog Leg Left was also reviewed in the September 2020 edition of Northern Wilds, a monthly magazine distributed along the North Shore of Lake Superior from Duluth. MN, to Thunder Bay, Ontario. Here’s what reviewer Breana Roy had to say:

“Local author Dave Saari’s fourth mystery novel again features rising-star golfer Samantha Williamson and her caddie/lover Terry Hatchett. The story begins with the duo playing golf at the Gunflint Hills Golf Course in Grand Marais. After a startling discovery in the rough on Gunflint’s par four, Sam and Terry find themselves on another mysterious adventure, stumbling into a tangled web of smuggling, drugs, and murder. Taking place at various North Shore locations, with likable, quirky characters, Dog Leg Left is a fast-paced mystery novel, perfect for both golf fanatics and North Shore enthusiasts alike.” 

If Ms. Roy’s review inspires you to action, just click here to purchase a copy.


Dave Saari Books now in Minnesota Libraries

I’m pleased to announce that my four mystery novels are now available for reading in eBook format through Minnesota libraries that subscribe to the Indie Minnesota program (MN READS WRITES). This service is provided by Biblioboard, an eBook reading platform for libraries. You can access the books directly using the following links:

Dog Leg Left

Lateral Hazard



After clicking on the link, you should see a page that looks like this:


Just click on “READ THIS” and an eBook will appear. So now, folks who may be interested in reading my golf-themed mystery novels, but not quite enough to part with $2.99 for an eBook, can read them for FREE!! Try it and enjoy!

Author Update

Chalk up another victory for Jeff Bezos, the richest man in the world. In this case, it’s also a victory for mystery golf book fans who may want to purchase one of my books in paperback format.

As I’ve reported in previous posts, I’ve almost always had the dream of writing novels, starting with my first attempt, My Dog and I, at age six. Since I’ve also always had the desire to feed myself and, later, my family, I never let that dream get in the way of reality, though I did make the occasional attempt at landing a publisher. After my first golf-themed mystery, Snowman, had been rejected four or five times, I was ready to give up the dream entirely. But then one day I heard a news story on the radio about Lulu Press, one of the first print-on-demand (POD) publishing houses. Lulu was designed for ordinary folks like me, providing the opportunity to self-publish works that don’t meet the revenue goals of the traditional publishers. Soon thereafter, in 2006, Snowman was released to the world as a POD paperback through Lulu. As the popularity of eBooks grew over the years, I decided to add an eBook option for Snowman. Since Amazon was then and still is the dominant source for eBooks, I used Kindle Direct Publishing (KDP) for the eBook.

Somewhere along the line, Lulu also began offering worldwide distribution of paperback books through Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and Ingram Distribution, so I decided to opt into that to broaden the scope of availability for Snowman. Unfortunately, adding this additional distribution network required increasing the retail price of the paperback to a minimum of $15.00, to cover the additional costs of the various players in the chain. Lulu did allow setting a discount for purchases through Lulu, so the Lulu price was set to $13.50.

Since retirement gave me more time to write, I’ve subsequently added three more golf-themed mysteries to my repertoire, Slice, Lateral Hazard, and Dog Leg Left. All three were also published as paperbacks on Lulu and eBooks on KDP. All were priced in the same way — $2.99 for eBooks, $15.00 retail price and $13.50 Lulu price for paperbacks. I always found the publishing process to be quite easy, so I never really considered alternative POD publishers. I was often asked by other independent authors why I didn’t just publish the paperbacks on KDP, which has since added paperback publishing as well as eBooks. I’m a bit stubborn and averse to change, and I also felt that maybe Amazon didn’t need to get every last bit of my book business, so I just kept on with the way I had started.

But then, about a month ago, everything changed at Lulu. Some genius decided to “upgrade” the Lulu website. I visited the site one day to make a routine check on my sales and revenues, and found utter chaos. Some of the books on my author page did not have cover images, all displayed a note stating that distribution was “pending,” the sales and revenue page informed me that I hadn’t sold any books at all, and — worst of all — the discount for buying from Lulu was gone. I subsequently received some communications from Lulu explaining that they were working diligently to fix the missing cover images and the missing revenue data, while also implying that the higher price was also an error to be fixed soon. But, eventually, they posted an FAQ page about all the wonderful changes they’d made, including the fact that the discount was permanently gone.

The presumably unintended result of this grand upgrade was that I decided to explore publishing the paperback books on KDP instead of on Lulu. Lo and behold, I found that the process was just as easy and also that the publishing cost was actually less on KDP than on Lulu. The upshot of all this is that I am now able to offer the paperback books for $9.99 from Amazon, including worldwide distribution through other sources, and by dropping the global option at Lulu I can reduce the price to $9.99 there as well. I’ve done this already for Dog Leg Left and Lateral Hazard and will do it for Snowman and Slice in the near future. Check out the books page for details and purchase links.

So, as I said, another win for Jeff Bezos, as well as for mystery readers. Since I’m not exactly racking up world record book sales, I’m sure Jeff won’t even notice. But you can now save up to $5.01 for a thrilling read during the Covid-19 doldrums. Not too bad, eh?


The Eagles’ New Home

Over the years, I’ve posted a few articles about the magnificent eagles that reside near our Grand Marais home: Our Eagle Friends, Spring 2017, The Back Yard. As reported, we found their nest in our “back yard” while out snowshoeing during the winter of 2016. Sadly, a ferocious wind storm in the fall of 2018 knocked over the tree supporting their nest. Here’s what it looked like in May 2019 – I saw no sign of eagles on the day I took this photo.


Thinking about the birds returning in 2019 to find their home ruined made me very sad, but we still saw eagles flying back into the woods, making me wonder if they had built a new nest somewhere in the vicinity. Today, I trekked through the rough terrain to have a look at the old site again, just to satisfy my curiosity. As I drew near, I was surprised to hear the unmistakable screech of an eagle. Looking up, here is what I saw:

This bird was obviously telling me to get the heck away from there, presumably protecting some eggs in a nest. Would the eagles actually be reusing their old home again? That seemed unlikely to me, but certainly possible. After shooting the video, I hightailed it out of there, with the bird still following along, circling overhead and squawking until I was well away and clearly no longer a threat before flying back toward the old nest. It wasn’t until I got back home and watched the video that I noticed a new nest in a nearby tree. I’d been inadvertently standing a dozen feet away from the eagles’ new home! Here’s a still from the video:

Eagles' New Home

It’s no wonder the bird was so agitated by my presence. I’ll need to go back and check it out again sometime, but I’ll be sure to stay far away from the new home site. I probably should wait until after nesting season is over, although it’s much harder to walk back in the woods later in the spring with all the vegetation springing to life. Maybe I’ll just wait until winter and go in with snowshoes again.

The US Endangered Species Act of 1973 is credited with saving many species from extinction, including the magnificent bald eagle, the proud symbol of our country. As I noted in a previous post, I am so thankful for the wise people who decided that these magnificent birds were worth saving. Now our so-called President and his wrecking crew of right-wing cabinet members is intent on gutting the Act at the urging of big business (

As I also said previously, we are all diminished when we allow nature’s beautiful creatures to perish due to the constant pursuit of the almighty dollar and the cynical quest for votes. If you don’t already have enough reasons to vote for Joe Biden this November, here’s one more – do it to honor the eagles and to protect their endangered brethren from Donald Trump.

Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure – PART 12: Finale

Our last (penultimate) episode ended in Tusayan, AZ, adjacent to the Grand Canyon National Park. Here’s a brief summary of our final travels.

April 3 (Wednesday): We drove 146 miles from Tusayan to the Homolovi State Park near Winslow, AZ, for a 1 night stay at a site with electric and water hookups. This State Park includes several archaeological sites which are remnants of prehistoric settlements of the Hisat’sinom, which is the Hopi word for “long-ago people.” These sites are considered sacred to the Hopi, and they ask that visitors treat the settlements with respect by not disturbing anything or taking photographs. After settling in at the campground, I rode my bike about half a mile to one of the sites and walked around the pathways marked for visitors. It was fascinating to see these remnants, such as pottery shards and stone walls, from a village that was occupied between 1330 and 1400 AD. The RV campground was very nice, with widely spaced sites and expansive views of the desert terrain and far-off mountains. As luck would have it, another couple from Cleveland pulled in to a nearby site in a Leisure Travel Vans Unity RV (same brand as ours) and had to come over and compare notes about our campers – just what a curmudgeonly hermit like me hopes for during dinner. NOT!

April 4 (Thursday): The next day, we drove 204 miles from Homolovi State Park to the Lavaland RV Park near Grants, NM, where we spent the night in a site with full hookups. The interesting thing about this park was an on-site microbrewery. I strolled over to check it out shortly after we arrived, and enjoyed a pint of something called Bombin’ Out Piñon Stout, flavored with piñon nuts as you probably guessed. Delicious!


April 5 (Friday): On Friday, we drove 250 miles to Tucumcari, NM, where we stayed one night at the Blaze-In-Saddle RV Park. On the entire trip, we didn’t see many places that looked sadder than Tucumcari. Formerly a thriving part of the famous Route 66, the road leading into the city is now lined on both sides with vacant and decaying buildings. The main part of town still has a fair number of residents and businesses, but it must be no more than half what it was back in the glory days. What a shame that no enterprise has come in to revitalize the place. The RV park was nice enough, with full hookups, but when we drove off the next day, we inadvertently left our leveling jack pads behind. I hope the next folks made good use of them!

April 6 (Saturday): We drove 207 miles to Liberal, KS on Saturday. Any thought that the political leanings of the place might match the city name were quickly dispelled as we passed by the local High School, which sported a large sign proclaiming itself as the “Proud Home of the Redskins.” Pfui. We parked the RV at a simple site with an electrical hookup. And what did I discover as I rode my bike over to the nearby Event Center to deposit a check for the site? The Willow Tree Golf Course, that’s what! So, I schlepped about a mile over to the clubhouse with my golf clubs and played 18 holes. The course was very nice, though flat as a pancake, with excellent fairways and greens. I played very well (for an old duffer) and enjoyed the beautiful spring afternoon.

April 7 (Sunday): The next day we were off again, for a 195-mile drive to the Sand Hills State Park near Buehler, KS. Overnight, the wind had come up, and we made the entire drive in a howling fury, buffeted by gusts that had to be near 50 mph. Worst of all, the highway was a two-lane affair, and whenever we encountered a semi-trailer truck going the opposite direction we were temporarily shielded from the wind, nearly sucking us into the wrong lane before the subsequent blast threw us back toward the right-hand ditch. By the time we reached the State Park, I could barely pry my hands off the wheel, and I was exhausted beyond belief. We found a nice RV site with full hookups, but hardly ventured out of the RV for fear of blowing away to he Land of Oz like Dorothy and Toto.

April 8 (Monday): Thankfully, the wind died down overnight before we left on our next leg, a 261-mile jaunt to the Wallace State Park near Cameron, MO. There, we were able to camp in a very nice RV site with water and electric hookups and a trailhead just steps away. Feeling much more relaxed than the day before, we hiked several miles around the park trails before retiring for the night.



April 9-12 (Tuesday-Friday): On Tuesday, we continued our near-sprint toward home with a 224-mile drive to the Pine Lake State Park near Eldora, IA. This is the same place we stayed way back when (October 23-24, 2018), our first stop outside of MN on our way south at the beginning of the Excellent Adventure. As faithful readers may recall, there is a golf course right next to the park, and I walked over there with my clubs right after we made camp in a site with an electric hookup. The weather was not too bad, mostly cloudy but warm enough (upper 50s). By the time I had played the 9-hole course twice, the weather began to deteriorate. By late afternoon it was sprinkling, and by late evening it was raining steadily. So, our sprint home stalled out there in Eldora as we were pelted by heavy rain for three days straight. Meanwhile, Minnesota was suffering through a veritable blizzard, so we just hunkered down in Iowa to wait it out. We ended up staying four nights at Pine Lake State Park, without encountering a single other camper. I guess most people realized it was too early for camping.


April 13-21 (Saturday-Saturday-Sunday): On Saturday we boldly ventured north to Minnesota. Almost comically, within a mile or two of crossing the border from Iowa, the ground was covered with snow. The sun was shining brightly, though, doing its best to melt it all away. After a 209-mile drive, we arrived at our son, Nick’s, home in Brooklyn Center, MN. The snow melted within a few days, and we stayed in the Twin Cities for just over a week doing various things, such as recovering our car from son Matt (who had served as its steward all winter), running errands that we had put off while traveling about the country, and visiting with family members, including a lovely Easter dinner at Pat’s brother Allen’s new home in Minnetonka. We actually stayed with Allen and his wife, LeAnne, during the week while the RV rested up in Nick’s driveway for the final leg of the trip home.

April 22 (Monday): After one final, 268-mile drive, I arrived home with the RV on Monday afternoon.

So that’s the end of our Excellent Adventure! Below is a map of our travels home from the Grand Canyon. (Click here for maps of the entire trip.)

Map 6

Thanks to those faithful readers who have followed the adventure! I’ll leave you with a few final notes:

  • From October 22, 2018 through April 22, 2019, we travelled 10,200 miles in the RV, plus several hundred more (not tracked) in three rental cars and our own car.
  • We visited 11 states, 9 National Parks, 2 National Monuments, 1 National Recreation Area, and 12 or more State Parks in Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California.
  • We stayed at a wide array of RV Parks, from simple campgrounds with 10 or 20 sites to elaborate villages with over a thousand sites. All of them were nice, but I enjoyed the less fancy ones better.
  • We had more fun than any two senior citizens have a right to expect, and we can’t wait to make another RV trip starting this fall.

Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure – PART 11: Gorgeous Gulches

Our last episode ended at Desert Hot Springs, CA. From there, we headed east and visited some beautiful canyons as we began heading back home.

March 15-21 (Friday-Thursday): Our first stop was the Pirates Den RV Resort, located in what’s known as the Parker Strip in Arizona, a 10-15 mile stretch along the Colorado River just across from California. We had driven westward along Highway 95 through the area back in December, and I was entranced by views of a beautiful golf course on both sides of the highway. At the time, I vowed to play the course on our way back east, so before leaving California we made a one-week reservation for a full-hookup site at the RV park closest to it. The RV park was a bit silly with its pirate-themed décor, but the on-site restaurant (The Black Pearl) had very good food, and we enjoyed a couple of meals there, including a dinner commemorating our 40th Anniversary on March 17. The park also had good laundry and shower facilities, but the real attraction was the golf course, called Emerald Canyon. The clubhouse is located just across the main access road to the park, about a half mile walk from our RV site. During our week’s stay, I trudged over there and back with my clubs three times and had probably my most enjoyable golfing of the entire trip. The course was even more beautiful than I had expected based on my initial sighting back in December. Twelve of the holes are located on the northwest side of the highway, and six are located on the southeast side – the cart paths go underneath the highway four times through two tunnels during the course of an eighteen-hole round. Some holes are located in the relatively flat terrain of the Colorado River basin, while others are at substantially higher elevations in a beautiful series of canyons that wind among the foothills of the nearby mountains, and the elevation changes result in spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The fairways and greens were in beautiful condition; even though the Parker Strip region is semi-arid, the course has several ponds that serve the dual purpose of irrigation for the course and fish hatcheries for the Arizona DNR. The fairways that run through the canyons are very narrow, placing a high priority on accurate tee shots as opposed to distance. I played from the Diamond (white) tees at an overall length of 5897 yards for the par 72 layout. Despite fighting an occasional wicked duck hook, which resulted in several lost ball penalties, I managed to play fairly well the first two times and quite well the third time – over the three rounds I managed to birdie one hole, make bogey or par on sixteen others, and only had one unconquerable hole which I double-bogeyed every time. After those three rounds, I decided not to give up the game again in the foreseeable future.


March 22-24 (Friday-Sunday): On Friday, we headed for Bullhead City, AZ, where we decided to stop for three nights at the Silver View RV Resort. This is a place we had stayed at back in November, located on a hill overlooking the Colorado River. I remembered the on-site deli where I had a Nathan’s hot dog special the last time, so naturally I needed another one of those for lunch on Saturday. We did a little biking and hiking around the RV Park, but basically were just resting up over the weekend for our upcoming visits to more gorgeous gulches.

March 25-27 (Monday-Wednesday): On Monday, we headed north to Utah, where we stayed for three nights at the Temple View RV Resort in St. George. The drive from Bullhead City to St. George was interesting, consisting of three distinct phases. First came the flat, desert terrain of southern Nevada as we headed toward Las Vegas. Then came the hectic freeway jumble of the greater Las Vegas area, followed by a long stretch of straight road, again through flat, desert terrain, as we followed I 15 to the northeast and across the northwest corner of Arizona. But eventually the highway ahead seemed to just disappear into the distant mountains. As we neared the Utah border, I 15 took a sharp left turn (which had hidden the road from view) into the foothills, and we were then treated to spectacular canyon views as the highway wound back and forth through multiple switchbacks for the rest of the way. St. George itself was not a particularly scenic city, but the surrounding views in all directions were stunning, with several snow-capped peaks providing a sharp contrast to the predominant red of the nearby hills. The RV park took its name from a nearby LDS Temple, its brilliant white spire rising majestically about a mile away. I was very excited to find a DQ adjacent to the RV Park, literally steps from our site, so we naturally had to go there for a late lunch on Monday. (I had the 4-piece chicken strip basket, to no one’s surprise, since I hadn’t had one since leaving Grand Marais six months ago.) We discovered a bike path about two blocks away, which provided access to an excellent network of paths that we explored on Tuesday and Wednesday. Our Wednesday circuit covered about 8 miles, so I didn’t feel too guilty about the DQ indulgence.



March 28-30 (Thursday-Saturday): On Thursday, we headed west to the town of Springdale, UT, where we stayed for three nights at the Zion Canyon RV Campground, just outside the Zion National Park. We spent the next three days exploring Zion, our eighth National Park visit since October. The National Park Service (NPS) runs an excellent shuttle bus service with nine stops in the town of Springdale, including one about two hundred yards from our RV site. This shuttle takes people to a small market square area adjacent to the National Park. A pedestrian walkway leads to the entrance gate, where I happily displayed my Lifetime Senior Access pass for free entry into the Park. Inside the park, the NPS runs another shuttle service with stops at nine of the most popular sites. On Thursday, we rode the shuttle all the way to Stop 9, the Temple of Sinawa, enjoying the recorded commentary describing the various park attractions and trails along the way. From Stop 9, we took a 2.2-mile hike along the Virgin River, before riding the shuttle back to the main Visitor Center.


On Friday, we first rode to Stop 7, Weeping Rock, for a short, half-mile hike and a close-up view of a fascinating waterfall that spews directly out of the sandstone cliff. We then rode back to Stop 5, Zion Lodge, where we took a 1.2-mile hike to the Lower Emerald Pool before having lunch at the Lodge. We then rode to Stop 3, Canyon Junction, and walked 2 miles from there to the Park entrance. On Saturday, we eschewed the shuttle, walking a mile to Stop 2, Museum, where we watched a movie about the park history, before heading back to our campsite.



Zion was definitely a highlight of the trip, with an endless supply of beautiful scenery, excellent, easy access to all the main sites, and just the right amount of hiking for two old duffers. We did see some people climbing along the Park’s most famous trail, to Angels Landing. They looked like ants as we rode past on the shuttle bus. After listening to the description of the harrowing trail, from which several people have plunged to their deaths over the years, I opted to skip that hike and buy an Angels Landing tee shirt instead.

March 31 (Sunday): On Sunday, we left the Zion Canyon Campground and headed back to Nevada, planning to overnight at Lake Mead on our way to the next Gorgeous Gorge. We decided to take a more scenic route rather than going back via Las Vegas, and as a result, we had one of the overall most interesting drives of our adventure. After backtracking through St. George and the scenic mountain canyons we saw on the way to Zion and cutting across northwestern Arizona, we turned south off of I 15 onto Nevada State Highway 169. This less-travelled highway passes through the Moapa Valley and enters the National Recreation Area from the north. Along the way, we stopped for lunch and took a short hike along the Redstone Dune trail, where we saw some fascinating red sandstone formations.



Then it was on to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area’s Boulder Beach campground in an RV site with no hookups. We had stayed here for two nights back in November and found it very nice, so it seemed like a good overnight stop. I did some biking along the nearby bike trail in the afternoon, but otherwise we were just resting up for the next day’s long trip.

April 1-2 (Monday-Tuesday): On Monday, we departed from Lake Mead and headed for Tusayan, AZ. This was roughly a four-hour drive, which is the most we like to do in one day. At Tusayan, we stayed for two nights at the Grand Canyon Camper Village in a site with electric and water hookups. After settling in and getting oriented on Monday evening, we boarded the Tusayan shuttle on Tuesday morning and headed for the granddaddy of Gorgeous Gorges, the Grand Canyon itself. We last visited the Grand Canyon in 2005 with our sons, Nick and Brian. Since then, the NPS has instituted a shuttle system much like the Zion system. (Or, if it did exist back then, we weren’t aware of it.) There is a line with about five stops in the town of Tusayan that runs into the Park, bypassing the long line of vehicles waiting at the entrance gate, with a drop off at the main Visitor Center. Within the park, there are three lines that run along the south rim road and through the Grand Canyon Village, with multiple stops at excellent viewing locations. Once we arrived at the Visitor Center, we took the Orange Line to Yaki Point, the easternmost location served by the shuttles. After some walking and gawking, we rode back to the Visitor Center, rode a Blue Line shuttle through the village, then took a Green Line shuttle to Hermits Rest, the westernmost shuttle stop. The total distance from Yaki Point to Hermits Rest, if one were to walk along the rim trail, is thirteen miles. We had a sandwich lunch at Hermits Rest and had planned to walk around there for a bit, but the weather had turned a bit snarly and we were pelted with rain and wind as we ate. So, we jumped back on the shuttle and stopped for short hikes at Hopi Pont and Powell Point. Then it was back to the Village to look at the Railroad Station, on to the Visitor Center to buy a cap, and some walking along the rim trail (by then, the weather had become more pleasant.)





The Grand Canyon, our ninth National Park visit of the trip, is truly spectacular. There are two main differences as compared with Zion. First, the scale of the Grand Canyon is immense – no description or photo can truly convey the vastness of the place – while Zion is huge but more fathomable. Second, Zion visitors enter the canyon at the bottom and look up at the scenery above, while Grand Canyon visitors enter at the top and look down at the scenery below. The Grand Canyon (6.4 million annual visitors) and Zion (4.3 million) are the second and fourth most visited National Parks. The excellent, totally free shuttle systems make them both extremely visitor friendly, and they both ought to be on most people’s bucket lists.


That’s it for this episode! Now we’re starting to head for home, back in Minnesota. Check back in a couple of weeks for the final installment of this Excellent Adventure series. Below is a map of our travels since leaving Palm Springs for the second time in March. (Click here for maps of the entire trip so far.)

Map 5

Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure – PART 10: Déjà Vu?

Our last episode ended at Doheny State Beach in Dana Point, CA, our next-to-last stay along the Pacific coast. This post describes we’ve done during the subsequent month.

February 13-21 (Wednesday-Wednesday-Thursday): On Wednesday, we left Doheny State Beach and drove to the Sunland RV Park in San Mateo, CA, a suburb on the east side of San Diego. We had booked a week’s stay to allow time for receiving some mail from our forwarding service. As it turned out, a week was not enough time for the good old US Postal Service, so we ended up staying an extra day waiting for the mail and then one more day because, when the mail finally arrived, it was raining cats and dogs all across the southern part of California. In fact, of the nine days total we spent in the San Diego area, it rained for at least a portion of five of them. On those rainy days, we basically just hunkered down in the RV and hoped we didn’t wash away in a flash flood. Luckily, the other four days were quite nice, so we were able to do some fun things. The RV Park was unique in its proximity to one of the three main lines of the San Diego Trolley system. In fact, our RV site was literally a pitching wedge distance (about a hundred yards) away from the 70th Avenue station on the Sycuan (Green) line. (The first photo below is taken from behind the RV looking toward the trolley station. The other photo is taken from the trolley station, and you can sort of make out our RV in the background.)



We bought two four-day passes on Thursday ($15 each) that allowed unlimited rides on the trolley lines as well as all the area bus lines. It rained too heavily for traveling on one of the subsequent days, so we also bought one-day passes ($5 each) on Tuesday. Even though the rain ended up costing us the extra $10, we made the most of the four days we spent riding the rails. We literally travelled every single foot of track on each of the three lines, Sycuan (Green), UC San Diego (Blue), and Orange. (Apparently the Orange line couldn’t find a title sponsor.) Here are the things we did during our trolley riding days:

  • We started off with a trolley to the Gaslamp Quarter station where we had a nice BBQ lunch, then walked around the downtown area to get oriented, passing by Petco Park, the Convention Center, and along the oceanfront before returning to the Santa Fe Depot station. We observed many, many people zipping around town on rental scooters and bikes. These are parked all around town on the sidewalks – a rider just grabs one, swipes or taps a card, rides to his or her destination, and leaves it there for someone else. It looked very convenient and quite fun, but we relied solely on our own feet, unwilling to risk a life-threatening injury of some sort. On the way back to the RV Park, we got off at the SDSU station and walked two blocks to Trader Joes for groceries before returning to the RV park. We were very impressed with the trains – they were clean, comfortable, and ran frequently, never requiring more than a five- or ten-minute wait.
  • For our next trip, we rode to the Santa Fe Depot station again before walking to a nearby terminal, where we boarded a boat and took a two-hour harbor cruise. It was abundantly clear from the tour that the US Navy is the lifeblood of the San Diego harbor. We saw seemingly hundreds of active Navy ships of all sizes and capabilities and several drydock facilities that primarily service the Navy ships. The USS Midway, a gigantic, retired aircraft carrier, is also docked in the harbor as a floating museum. We also saw some commercial vessels, including a cargo ship capable of carrying 2400 automobiles – it was anchored just outside the harbor waiting for final clearance to deliver its cargo. (Maybe DJT needed to collect his tariffs first?) We learned that 24% of all cars imported from the Far East for the US market enter through the San Diego port. The California sea lions pictured below didn’t seem overly impressed with either the Navy ships or the commercial vessels, however. We topped off the day with dinner at the San Diego Pier Café, situated on pilings above the harbor water. I had an excellent cioppino, Pat had fish tacos, and we even splurged on Margaritas.






  • For our next foray, I thought it might be useful to travel down to the US-Mexico border and make my own personal assessment of the so-called national emergency going on there. We rode the Green line to its terminus, walked a hundred yards or so to board the Blue line, and rode that all the way to the San Ysidro border crossing. This is the very place where tear gas was fired at asylum-seeking families supposedly attempting to storm the border just a few weeks previously. We saw no signs of any sort of panic; instead we observed: people shopping at a large outlet mall located literally a stone’s throw from the border fence; people calmly walking to and from the border crossing locations; construction crews busily working on a massive upgrade project that will significantly increase capacity, both vehicle lanes and pedestrian crossings in both directions; and US Border Patrol agents leaving at the end of their shifts, talking, smiling, and laughing among themselves as they passed us, presumably on their way to their parked cars. We learned that 70,000 vehicles and 20,000 pedestrians cross the border from Mexico at San Ysidro every day, but that the vast majority are Mexican citizens commuting to work in the US before returning in the evenings, as well as tourists (returning Americans and foreign visitors). In short, we saw no evidence of a national emergency – apparently you can only see it if your politics lean in a certain direction – we merely saw the usual hustle and bustle of a typical, vibrant American city. The most significant thing to me was the difference in the view – to the north I saw mostly vast, open spaces, to the south, multi-story dwellings crammed together on every hill I could see over the fence.


  • For our last San Diego outing, we again took the Green line to the Santa Fe Depot, then walked to a ferry terminal (right next to the harbor cruise terminal). The ferry took us to the east side of Coronado Island. We walked about a mile and a half across the island to the historic Hotel del Coronado, where we walked around admiring the iconic building before stopping for a late lunch at an outdoor patio restaurant. It was a bit breezy and cool sitting outside, but we enjoyed both the food and the view. After walking across the island again, we boarded a smaller ferry boat and rode back to a terminal near the Convention Center before catching the trolley. This time, we took the Orange line to its terminus, transferred to the Green line and rode to its terminus, and then rode back to our RV park. Great fun for a couple of train enthusiasts.



As I noted above, we had intended to move on to our next destination on Wednesday, not actually knowing where that might be, but the mail hadn’t yet arrived, so we extended our stay until Thursday. The mail finally came on Thursday morning, but as we were trying to decide where to go next, we saw that the forecast was for rain over the entire region, and even snow in some areas. So, we decided to extend our stay another day, and were immediately rewarded with a downpour that lasted well into the night. Having grown weary of the rain, we decided to head back to Arizona on Friday in hopes of finding the sun again.

February 22-24 (Friday-Sunday): We headed east on Friday morning, driving through the remnants of snowfall in the mountains as we left the San Diego area. As we descended from the mountains into the desert, it got sunnier and warmer with virtually every mile until we rolled into a place we had visited before, Rolle’s Lynda Vista RV Park in Yuma, AZ. Here we were at last rejuvenated by glorious sunshine for three straight days. There was, of course, no trolley as we had enjoyed in San Diego, but we were familiar with the area and were able to ride our bikes every day – to the nearby grocery store, to the local taqueria, around the neighborhood to visit the cattle I’d grown fond of during the last visit, and along a nice bike trail that ran three or four miles along the Colorado River and an irrigation canal. Over the course of our stay, as I listened to the clucking of chickens wandering about the park and the daily afternoon jingle of the neighborhood ice cream truck, a feeling of déjà vu surfaced. I could swear we had been here before, and we had – back in December!




February 25-March 2 (Monday-Sunday): Fully refreshed by the Yuma sunshine, we resumed our quest, heading north and west again toward the Coachella Valley. (I’ll explain why a little later.) This time we went up the west side of the Salton Sea until we came to the Oasis Palms RV Park near the not-quite thriving metropolises of Mecca and Thermal, CA. We had thought we would be close to the Salton Sea at this park, but actually could not see it at all. It was a sleepy place just to the west of Highway 86, with a nice little pond, pickle ball court, laundry, showers, and about 200 RV sites with full hookups. The surrounding area had several date palm groves, greenhouses, and agricultural fields of many varieties, but very little in the way of hiking or other tourist-type activities. I used my bike to ride around the park and to a nearby store (where I was able to buy some incredibly cheap wine as well as my daily Dr. Pepper fix), and I did a little chipping and putting in a small area set aside for that purpose, but otherwise we spent our time here vegging out and falling into a near stupor. Also, the Wi-Fi service was pretty … darned … s … l … o … w.


March 3-5 (Sunday-Tuesday): On Sunday we drove to Joshua Tree National Park. We had previously stayed at the Black Rock campground on the north side of the Park back in December; this time we entered from the south and stayed at the Cottonwood campground. As we drove into the Park, we were greeted by a stunning display of spring wildflowers in vibrant colors, primarily green, yellow, and purple.


As we drove further north to the campground, the flowers thinned out and esentially disappeared, leaving a sandy landscape very similar to what we saw in December. We stayed in a lovely RV site with no hookups for three nights.


On Sunday, we followed a trail from the campground to a place where it intersects the primary area loop trails (only about a half-mile round trip). On Monday, we hiked along the Mastodon Loop in a clockwise direction. The first half of the trail was very similar to those we hiked at the north campground, with sandy soil and sparse vegetation (though there were only a very few Joshua trees, not the multitude we saw in the north). The trail climbed about a thousand feet to the summit of Mastodon Peak, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and desert areas. We also passed by the remnants of an old mine. The trail then descended from the peak toward the Cottonwood Springs oasis, and as we neared that area, we again saw many beautiful spring flowers. Unfortunately, my phone had died by then and Pat had left hers in the RV, so we got no pictures along the final third of the loop. All in all, this hike covered about 3.5 miles. When I recharged the phone, I was surprised to see that several emails and a phone call had come through, even though we had no cell service at the campground. It dawned on me that we must have picked up a signal somewhere in the higher elevations near the peak during our hike.



On Tuesday we hiked the 3.5-mile trail again, but in the counterclockwise direction so we could be sure to get photos of the oasis and the flowers. The oasis was very surprising, with a dozen or more gigantic date palm trees that thrive on the water from the eponymous spring. (We couldn’t see any water flowing, but the ground around the trees did appear to have some wet spots. The area was posted with signs stating that the ground water had been contaminated by mining activity. The native Coahuilla tribe lived here for hundreds of years without damaging the environment, but it only took the civilized folks a half-century to do it in.)


We tried to get some closeups of the flowers, but they don’t do the place justice. Many of the blooming flowers had surprisingly delicate and intricate features, yet the stems and roots were hardy enough to withstand the harsh desert climate. I was also impressed by the sheer number of different plant species on display – there were dozens of them when I had expected to see only a few.


As we neared the peak again, our phones found cell signals, so we stopped for a brief rest at the top, where we couldn’t resist checking our emails (and playing a few games of Words with Friends) before we lost the signals again on the way down.

March 6-14 (Wednesday-Wednesday-Thursday): On Wednesday, we drove back down into the Coachella Valley and once again checked into the Catalina Spa RV Resort in Desert Hot Springs. Why were we revisiting so many places? A good question, with a complicated answer. Back when we were staying in Morgan Hill in January, Pat decided she would like to go see some action at the PNB Paribas Open tennis tournament in Indian Wells, one of the many cities in the Palm Springs area. This is quite a famous tournament which attracts most of the top players in the world. She was easily able to obtain tickets for the tournament, for Sunday and Monday, March 10 and 11. Since she planned t attend the tournament from morning till night, we thought it would be a good idea to stay in a hotel near the tennis venue for a couple of nights. This is where the plan got tricky – every hotel she called was booked solid due to the popularity of the tennis tournament. She kept trying to find a hotel as we drove south along the Pacific coast, hampered severely by lack of cell service in most places. Finally, she was able to get a connection and book two nights at the Hotel Paseo, a new establishment in Palm Desert, about 4 miles from the Indian Wells Tennis Garden. She prepaid the reservation and we happily continued our journey for several days. But then we started to wonder if the hotel would be able to provide parking for the RV while we stayed there. Pat called them while we were staying in San Diego and, you guessed it – the answer was no, they could only accommodate passenger cars due to very limited parking on site. Our solution to this conundrum was to stay at an RV resort, rent a car for a while, and leave the RV at the resort while we stayed in town for the tennis. And what better place to visit than the Catalina Spa, where I had stayed for three weeks while golfing my brains out in December and January? (We later learned we weren’t supposed to leave the RV unoccupied for more than 24 hours without prior permission, but that’ll be our little secret.) We were able to rent a car for a week using credit card points, and we made good use of the car for the tennis outing as well as gadding about the Palm Springs area for other things.

Since this post is getting inordinately long, I’ll just briefly summarize some of the things we did during our stay. Pat had a fabulous time at the tournament, where she saw many of the game’s greats, including her favorite, Rafael Nadal, as well as Roger Federer, the Williams sisters, and many more.


I played golf twice at the Shadow Mountain golf course, the first course ever built in the Coachella Valley back in the 1950s. It’s a short track that places a premium on accuracy rather than length and has incredibly difficult greens. I also saw one of the game’s greats who was my cart-mate the second time, a young man from Long Island named Ryan, who shot even par with three birdies and an eagle during his round. I did not quite achieve that level, playing poorly the first time and abominably the second time. (At that point, I recalled that I had given up the game back in Morgan Hill and should have just skipped golf altogether.) We also did several errands during the stay, including laundry, getting the RV washed, getting Pat’s bicycle tire repaired (it had gone flat), and getting our tax returns printed at a local FedEx (we couldn’t e-file this year due to technical issues). More hiking was also in the cards, as we visited the Coachella Valley Preserve, located about 5 miles away in Thousand Palms. There, we saw many more of the large date palms that grow in oases fed by spring water. (I say, that must be why they call this area Palm Springs!) I learned that the tree trunks are much smaller than they look, as they reside within large “skirts” formed by the old palm fronds. You can see that in the photo below, where I am standing between a tree with a large skirt and another on which the skirt had been burned away.


OK, enough for now! We’re off again, heading east toward Arizona. Check back in a couple of weeks or so to learn what we get up to next. Below is a map of our travels since leaving Palm Springs for the first time in early January. (Click here for maps of the entire trip so far.)

Map 4a

Pat and Dave’s Excellent Adventure – PART 9: Pacific Coast

Our last episode ended in Morgan Hill, CA, where we visited friends and relatives before heading south along the Pacific coast. Here’s a summary of what’s happened since then.

January 28-30 (Monday-Wednesday): We departed from Morgan Hill, feeling a bit like drowned rats and hoping for a respite from the excessive rain we experienced in the Bay Area. The weather was fairly cooperative, as the sky constantly changed from partly cloudy to heavy overcast to partly sunny and back again. After a bit of freeway driving, we soon found ourselves on the famous Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), officially known as California State Highway 1. We passed through Carmel without making a side trip up the Monterey Peninsula to Pebble Beach – it would have been nice to see the iconic golf links there, but we wanted to get to our next destination before 2 PM. Besides, the fashion police may well have demanded that I put on my new pants just to drive by the course, and I was in no mood for that.

The scenery along the PCH was absolutely stunning. Luckily the traffic was very light, so I didn’t need to pull the RV over too often to let cars pass. We did see signs stating that we were REQUIRED to pull over at various points if there were more than four cars backed up behind us, but that never happened. I had to constantly remind myself that open gawking at the scenery could result in a plunge to a watery grave, so we stopped at a few of the so-called Vista Points to take photos and wait for my head to clear and my hands to stop shaking. My past teasing of Pat for getting queasy on some of the other treacherous roads was forgotten; I was just as nervous as she was. When we passed by the entrance to the infamous Esalen Institute, I briefly considered a quick stop for some new age counseling to calm our nerves, but who knows what might have become of us had we done that.


At any rate, we made it safely to our next destination, Limekiln State Park, located in a steep ravine along the Big Sur coast. The park did not allow RVs greater than 25 ft in length, because the entrance road has a very sharp turn and the 10-12 sites where RVs can stay will only accommodate small rigs. (This was another example of why we are so happy with our 24-foot RV, along with the fact that a longer one would almost certainly have found that watery grave alongside the PCH.) The park consisted of two parts – the inland side was a beautiful redwood forest with crystal clear creeks, and the ocean side opened onto a rocky cove with stunning views of the Pacific, with hundreds of birds soaring in the sky and nestling on the rocks. On Monday afternoon, we hiked along one of the trails through the redwoods to see some 1880’s vintage lime kilns (the source of the park’s name) and then enjoyed the evening sunset over the ocean. There was no cell service in the park and no electricity or water hookups for the RV, so our time there was very relaxing and enjoyable. Except that, after another somewhat decent day on Tuesday that included more hiking in the redwoods and another nice sunset, it started to rain again. With overcast skies on Tuesday afternoon and rain on Wednesday, our solar panels could not keep the RV batteries sufficiently charged, so we needed to run our generator for an hour each evening. Who knew the life of the modern RV camper could be so hard?




January 31-February 2 (Thursday-Saturday): Having thoroughly enjoyed Limekiln, but again feeling very soggy, we motored off on Thursday along the PCH toward San Simeon. This stretch of highway was even rougher and more dramatic than Monday’s drive. Add in the off-and-on rain and heavy overcast conditions and my anxiety level was literally through the roof, to the point where I had to stop the RV at a tiny little town called, very fittingly, Ragged Point. I pulled off the PCH into a parking lot to find, as if heaven-sent, a tiny general store, into which I staggered to purchase a bottle of Dr. Pepper. After retreating to the RV, taking several long slugs of soda pop and many deep breaths, I looked into Pat’s barely focused eyes and promised her that, if we made it to San Simeon, I would never tease her again about being nervous on scary roads. Thankfully, shortly after we departed Ragged Point, the PCH transformed from a ferocious monster to a tame, but still beautiful, kitten. We still had many gorgeous views of the Pacific, but the road was now situated on a wide expanse of flat land between the ocean and the nearby hills, in stark contrast to what felt like a three- or four-foot path carved into the cliffside between Limekiln and Ragged Point. We stopped at a Vista Point along the way to admire the elephant seals lolling about on the beach. The signs there explained that this region of the coast is the largest elephant seal rookery in the world, and that the seals collect there in large numbers in January and February to mate and give birth to their young.



Shortly after the elephant seal area, we stopped the RV at the Hearst Castle Visitor Center just north of San Simeon. Hearst Castle is the name now given to the world-famous estate of William Randolph Hearst, the muckraking journalist and media mogul of the early 20th century. Hearst and his architect, Julia Morgan, built this amazing place over the period from 1919 to 1947. It is on top of a hill overlooking the Pacific to the west and beautiful valleys formed by the mountains to the east. To me, it felt like America’s version of the great castles of Europe. The architecture evokes a Mediterranean village, with a main mansion surrounded by several guest houses. The main house is filled with amazing artworks, including paintings, statuary, even entire Renaissance-era ceilings procured in Spain and transported to California specifically for Hearst’s project. On Thursday we took the so-called Grand Rooms tour, after which we intended to spend some time strolling the grounds, but guess what? By the time our two-hour tour ended, it was pouring rain again. So we took the bus back to the Visitor Center and sat in the RV for an hour (where we were able to get cell signals) until the rain stopped.



Once the rain let up, off we trundled to the Hearst San Simeon State Park, about five miles south of the Castle. We were able to get settled into our camp site, again with no electricity or water hookups and no cell signal, and walk along a very short trail to another beautiful Pacific beach, before it started to rain again. It rained off-and-on all night and into the morning.



On Friday morning, as we drove back to Hearst Castle for another two-hour tour, this one called the Upper Rooms Tour, we saw a sign stating that the PCH was closed to the north due to the excessive rain. This time when we finished our tour it wasn’t raining, though the heavy overcast kept us from enjoying what would normally have been spectacular views of the surrounding scenery. At any rate, we wandered the grounds for another hour or so, then bussed back to the Visitor Center to watch a movie about the building of the Castle before returning to the State Park.



As we were settling the RV back in to our site, a funny thing happened. It started to rain yet again. Within an hour, it was absolutely pouring, and it poured all evening and most of the night. On Saturday morning when I walked over toward the beach, the nearby creek had overflowed its banks and I had to turn back. But by afternoon the creek had receded, and we were able to have a nice walk along the beach. Again, we had to run the generator for cooking supper and to recharge the batteries.

February 3-6 (Sunday-Wednesday): Despite all the rain, we enjoyed our stays at Limekiln and Hearst San Simeon State Parks, but after six days of boondocking we were ready to stay at an RV Park with electricity and laundry facilities while we hoped for a break in the weather. So, we headed inland toward Paso Robles. As we drove along a winding road through the mountains, the fog became so thick that I was only able to go 35-40 mph, causing a backup of about seven cars behind me. Unlike the PCH, the highway had no turnout spots, so I couldn’t pull over to let them by. Naturally, I stressed out about this – seems I can’t drive anywhere without undue anxiety. As we started to descend toward Paso Robles, the fog lifted a bit, and a large pickup decided to pass the entire line of cars – while driving uphill and ignoring the double yellow line on the road. Right after he passed us, there was a stop sign. A hundred yards past that, the impatient truck driver turned off the highway and raced up a long driveway. Did he realize he’d been lucky there were no cars going the other way? Did he care? Who knows. Just before we reached Paso Robles, we saw a lovely rainbow, which I took as a good sign of things to come.


After stopping in town for groceries, we found a nice place to stay, the Wine Country RV Resort. I was surprised to learn that Paso Robles is a well-regarded wine region, with over 300 wineries in the area surrounding the town. In fact, we learned that the RV Park offered a winery tour. That sounded fun, so after spending Sunday afternoon doing laundry, I went to the park office on Monday to sign up for it. It turned out there wasn’t another winery tour until Wednesday, and we were planning on heading back to the coast again on Tuesday. But, wouldn’t you know it, it rained again on Monday and Tuesday, so we decided to extend our stay and go on the Wednesday winery tour. We were rewarded for this decision with a beautiful, sunny day on Wednesday and had a great time on the tour. We were chauffeured by a friendly woman named Kat to four different wineries – Lone Madrone, Whalebone, Treana, and Eberle. At each one, we sampled six or more wines and bought two bottles from among the selections we had tasted (eight bottles in total). The tour included a nice lunch of crackers and cheese after the second winery, and Kat was very informative and entertaining as she ferried us around the area. When we got back to the RV, I was pleased to find I was still upright, but I was definitely not feeling anxious in any way.



February 7-10 (Thursday-Sunday): On Thursday, we drove to Santa Barbara, where we had reserved a site at the Sunrise RV Park, a small park just off the Highway 101 freeway. Once there, I rode my bike to the Santa Barbara harbor to check out the lay of the land and inquire at the Visitor Center about tours of the nearby Channel Islands National Park. My route took me past a lovely golf course, through a bird refuge, and along the Pacific Ocean beachfront.




At the Visitor Center, I learned that the only boats to the Islands sail from Ventura or Oxnard, so we decided to book a Channel Islands Whale Watching cruise out of Ventura for the coming Sunday. On Friday morning, Pat had a business conference call, so I went for a walk around the neighborhood of the RV Park. Once Pat was done with her call and we’d eaten lunch in the RV, we walked the route I’d biked the day before. Our walk included an excursion to Stearns Wharf, an old steamboat pier now sporting several shops and restaurants. I got a waffle cone and Pat had a latte before we walked back to the RV. By this time my feet were complaining loudly, and I told Pat I was sure I’d covered at least 20,000 steps that day. I’ve only been using the step-counting feature on my phone since last July, shortly after my 68th birthday, but my previous high daily total since then was just over 18,000. I’ve walked far more than that in a single day many times during my younger days, before there were such things as step counters, but as a peripheral neuropathy sufferer over the past 15 years or so walking has become somewhat hard on my feet. Now, fishing out my phone, I saw that my step total was 19,800, a modern era personal record. But I’d just claimed to have walked 20,000 steps and was not about to be called a liar, so I headed out for another walk around the RV Park and returned to see that my new total was 20,245 (supposedly 9.63 miles). Take that, you pathetic, complaining feet!


Guess what happened next. It started raining Friday night and rained most of the day on Saturday. It was still sputtering as we drove down to Ventura on Sunday. The rain had stopped, but it was overcast and windy when we arrived at the Island Packers boat dock. Our cruise departed at 9:30 AM, and we encountered brief periods of both sun and rain as we sailed out to and around the Channel Islands. On the way, we encountered humpback whales, gray whales, dolphins, sea lions, pelicans, and gulls – what an absolutely delightful trip it was! I got some good videos of leaping dolphins and whales and am trying to learn how to edit them and make gifs. The images below do not do justice to what we actually saw on the trip. Let me just say that this venture to our seventh National Park was one of the real highlights of our Excellent Adventure.

Whale Video.gif


February 11-12 (Monday-Tuesday): On Monday, we pulled up stakes in Santa Barbara and headed south again along the coast. The weather was quite nice this time as we drove to and beyond Ventura, so we were able to fully enjoy the beautiful coastal scenery. That lovely drive gradually turned into a mind-numbing slog as we reached the greater Los Angeles area and traversed from one gigantic freeway to another, often coming to a near stop amidst a sea of cars and trucks. Thank goodness we weren’t traveling during the rush hour. Eventually we emerged from the concrete jungle and once again began to enjoy the Pacific coast as we made our way to Dana Point. We stayed Monday and Tuesday nights at Doheny State Beach, literally a hundred yards from the ocean in a nice campground with no electric or water hookups. We made good use of the bikes both days, exploring the pricey real estate along a local road to the south on Monday and riding into town for a nice lunch on Tuesday (we ate at the Harbor Grill in Dana Point, where I had the best crab cakes I’ve ever eaten). And, yes, it rained again on Monday night. Will it ever end?



Below is a map of our travels since leaving Palm Springs in early January. (Click here for maps of the entire trip so far.) After Doheny State Beach, we headed off toward San Diego. Check back in a couple of weeks for a report on our activities there and wherever else we may have found ourselves by then.

Map 4